But it is the rapid rise of Suga, 43, once a personal assistant to the legendary late French superchef Joel Robuchon, that will make most headlines.
Last year Sugalabo did not even make La Liste’s top 1,000.
His “secret” introduction-only dining room is hidden away behind a coffee house in the Azabudai neighbourhood, and closes for a few days every month so Suga can go off around Japan looking for new ideas and ingredients.
Although he comes from a family of chefs schooled in the French tradition, the produce Suga uses is almost entirely Japanese.
The playful Yamamoto, who invented edible inks to decorate his plates, got the maximum three Michelin stars four years ago.
He once served up what he called a “Chateau Ryugin 1970 soup” of potatoes, seashells and beetroot served in a bottle of wine corked with salsify.
Although he also trained in France, he insisted that “before I send a plate to a client I always ask myself, ‘Is this Japanese food?’ If the answer is no, I won’t serve it.”